The attraction to estate jewelry is its workmanship and uniqueness not often seen in current jewelry designs. Estate jewelry is popular with collectors because it carries a sense of history and respect for craftsmanship. Compared to new jewelry composed of the same metals and precious stones, estate jewelry can be significantly more affordable.
There are differences between estate jewelry, antique jewelry, and just "used" jewelry. Estate jewelry roughly means that it is jewelry that has been previously owned — not necessarily that it comes from someone's estate, though most estate jewelry does, in fact, come from one. Furthermore, estate jewelry encompasses pieces that are higher-end and feature fine workmanship and high-quality stones, and more often than not are one of a kind. Most estate jewelry is irreplaceable, which is why when you find a really good piece it commands a high price both for selling and buying.
Antique jewelry is jewelry that is over 100 years old. This is where art history becomes helpful — estate jewelry can be Georgian, Early Victorian, Late Victorian, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, Art Deco, or Retro. Each of these time periods has distinct characteristics that help identify pieces.
Jewelry Periods & Eras
Georgian (1714–1837)
Georgian estate jewelry is very rare and handmade. The designs are often nature-inspired and generally include precious stones. Because this era predates industrialization of jewelry manufacturing, every piece is truly one of a kind. Georgian pieces are highly prized by collectors for their rarity and craftsmanship.
Early Victorian (1837–1860)
Early Victorian jewelry is also nature-inspired, much like the Georgian era, reflecting Queen Victoria's love of flowers, leaves, and birds. Sentimental motifs were popular — lockets, mourning jewelry, and pieces incorporating hair of loved ones reflect the deeply personal nature of jewelry in this period.
Late Victorian (1860–1900)
The later Victorian period saw more elaborate and ornate designs. Stars, moons, and celestial motifs became fashionable alongside continued naturalistic themes. Black enamel and jet were popular for mourning jewelry following the death of Prince Albert in 1861.
Art Nouveau (1895–1910)
When you think of Art Nouveau estate jewelry, think of vintage Lalique with curves and natural designs that show butterflies and flowers. Think of Paris, romance, and women with long hair. Think beauty. Art Nouveau pieces are sculptural, feminine, and flowing — often featuring enamel, pearls, and semi-precious stones alongside diamonds. It lasted roughly between 1895 and 1910.
Edwardian (1901–1920)
The estate jewelry during the Edwardian period consisted of elaborate designs using expensive gems such as diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. This period marked the time when Edward became King after Queen Victoria died — it also marked a time of excess. The introduction of platinum allowed for extraordinarily delicate and lacy settings that gold could not support, creating a signature look of lightness and elegance.
Art Deco (1920s–1930s)
Art Deco is more abstract and geometric, with influences from cubism and Dadaism. Out of all the eras of estate jewelry, Art Deco is the most sought-after and commands the highest prices at auction and on the open market. Bold geometric patterns, strong lines, calibré-cut colored stones, and the contrast of white diamonds with black onyx are hallmarks of the period. If you have the opportunity to acquire a fine Art Deco piece, it is rarely a regrettable decision.
Retro (1935–1960)
Retro is inspired by Hollywood — jewelry that is bright, bold, elaborate, and colorful. The pieces are large and many were worn simultaneously. Gold was the primary metal (platinum was restricted during World War II for military use), and large synthetic stones, citrine, amethyst, and aquamarine were popular. This period covers up to approximately 1960. Estate jewelry newer than 1960 is considered contemporary.
Estate Jewelry at Grissom's
Some of our customers have antique or vintage pieces that have sentimental value or a family history but are in need of some additional work. At Grissom's, we can restore the original or assist in the design of a custom piece using the materials from the original item. At Grissom's, we get new estate pieces in year-round — stop by our showroom and view our estate jewelry collection, a trusted source for quality and authenticity. Products are correctly classified regarding the age and provenance of each piece of jewelry.